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Eliminate Backbox Hum and Buzz (Compliments of Mike Schudel) First of all, any modifications you do to
your game and CPU/Sound board, you do at your own risk.
Performing this procedure requires removing the CPU/Sound board and some
basic soldering. If you don’t
feel comfortable doing this yourself, either leave it alone or have a qualified
electronics technician perform the fix for you.
I take no responsibility for damaged boards or personal injury. Now with that out of the way! When I first received my NIB Monopoly and
finally got it all set up and turned on, one of the first things I immediately
heard was a quite obvious humming noise coming from the backbox.
The humming is a low frequency hum which also accompanied a higher
buzzing noise that increased and decreased in pattern with the playfield
lighting in attract mode. At first
I thought I had a bad transformer, or possibly a faulty ballast for the
fluorescent light in the backbox. Well,
everything checked out ok. It
wasn’t until I happened to lean close to the backbox that I realized the noise
was coming from the speakers. I
followed the wiring from the speakers to the backbox and saw connector CN4 on
the left side of the CPU/Sound board. I
disconnected the connector and the game fell silent.
So I knew there was something in the sound circuit that was causing the
humming and buzzing noise. I called Stern and talked to Chas whom is
their technical support person there and he explained to me what is causing the
noise and how to fix it. I have
made the fix to my own pin and since it worked like he said, I thought I would
pass it on to anyone interested in fixing their machine.
I know some people are purists about their machines and would never
modify it in any way. If I had to
listen to that hum for one more day I would go crazy. Chas stated that there are two
portions that make up the amplification of the sound for the game.
The first is the digital portion which is the level you can adjust via
the three buttons on the back of the coin door.
The second portion is the analog amplification and this is fixed from the
factory. Since these pins are usually set in noisy arcades, the analog
sound level is cranked way up to compete with all the ambient noise.
Since most of you who are reading this have them in your homes, the sound
does not have to be up quite so loud. Straight
from the box, I had the digital volume set on level 1.
When I set the level to 2, it was too loud for other people in the Family
Room. There was no fine adjustment
in between these two levels, so I was stuck. Basically what this repair does is turn down
the amplification of the analog circuit which will both eliminate the buzzing
and give finer volume adjustments using the digital volume controls. In your Monopoly manual on page 125 there is
a schematic of the sound amplifier circuit. The right side of the page
shows Speaker Outputs CN4 pins 1-7. Following pin 3 back is a 22K Ohm
resistor R106. This controls the gain of the amp for backbox speakers.
Similarly, back from pin 6 there is another 22K Ohm resistor R110 which
controls the amp gain for the cabinet speaker. What this fix will do is reduce
the resistance value of these two resistors.
The lower the value, the lower the amplification.
But the next question is what combination of resistor values works?
Well, this is where I have done the experimenting for you.
As it turns out a value between 3.8K Ohms and 4.7K Ohms works perfectly. Now, there are two ways to change this
resistance. The first is to remove
both R106 and R110 an solder in a ¼ watt, 5%, resistor between 3.8K Ohms and
4.7K Ohms. But this seemed like too
much work and way too much room to screw something up on the CPU/Sound board.
Not to mention that you would have to bend the resistor leads push them
through the solder holes, providing you could clear the old solder out first.
If you feel comfortable doing this, it will still work, but I have an
easier method. The second and easier method involves adding
resistance in parallel to the existing 22K Ohm resistor effectively reducing the
combined total resistance. The
formula for determining parallel resistance, that I use, is 1/R1 + 1/R2 = 1/Rt.
R1 is the 22K Ohm Resistor, R2 is the new resistor value that we need to
add, and Rt is the total combined resistance of between 3.8K Ohms and 4.7K Ohms.
Without getting into all the algebra, Rt vales fall between 4.7K Ohms and
6K Ohms respectively. So if we buy
a ¼ watt, 5% tolerance resistor between 4.7K Ohms and 6K Ohms and solder it in
parallel to the existing resistors, we will accomplish the same thing as
removing the existing resistor and only soldering in one.
Remember, the lower the resistance the less amplification. So the 4.7K Ohm resistor will reduce the output volume more
than the 6K Ohm will. I had
originally soldered in a 1K Ohm resistor and had to crank the digital volume to
max to get it loud enough. In my machine I ended up using a 4.7K Ohm,
¼ watt, 5% resistor I bought from Radio Shack which came in a 5 pack for .69
cents. We will be using only two
resistors, 1 to solder in parallel across R106 and 1 to solder in parallel
across R110 Basically what you need to do is unplug the
pin, remove the fluorescent lamp and remove the CPU/sound board from the backbox
by removing all the connectors from around the edge of the board. Be sure
you have dissipated any static in you body by touching the ground braid that
runs all over the pin or some of the metal chassis of the game.
Loosen the screws and lift to remove the board. Find R106 and R110
located near the left center of the board. Flip the board over and solder
1 of the 4.7K Ohm across existing resistor R106 and another 4.7K Ohm resistor
across existing resistor R110 on the solder side of the board. There is no
polarity to a resistor so you don’t need to worry which way the resistor goes
in. Be
sure and then make sure again you are soldering across the correct resistor!!!
Basically you should end up with a resistor in the same spot as R106 and
R110 but on the solder side of the board. Be careful soldering and trim
the excess leads before installing the board.
I was surprised to see other small components soldered to this side of
the board as well from the factory! Install the board, tighten the mounting
screws and reconnect all the connectors around the edges of the board.
Remember to reinstall the fluorescent lamp and plug the game back in.
It actually took me a half hour to perform this fix and all I had was
some basic soldering skills. Personally, I think Stern should change this
resistor value on their pin games. Even
with the analog amplifier turned down, you can still crank it up loud enough
using the digital controls that it could be heard in an arcade. Mike Schudel Monopoly #161072 (11-28-2001) Photo Compliments of Todd George
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